Étude no. 2 – Stepping Stones (free stitch pattern)
Here is another in my series of posts about design exercises. I’ve been noticing a little arrow motif popping up in my secret code charts:
It intrigued me. I happened to notice it yet again in a grid, this time with rotational symmetry and with a couple of extra squares:
Nifty! I thought. I’ve been wanting to stretch myself with designing asymmetrical patterns (that would admittedly have translational symmetry when repeated). Even though the little chart above has rotational symmetry, I knew that by the time I was done with it, that would be gone. (This is a future étude for me, I think: to design lace with vertical mirror symmetry or rotational symmetry.)
So, I plugged in the yarn overs in my usual way, and added wrong side rest rows with purls where necessary. Then I guessed where to put the decreases. My draft chart follows, from before I’d even started my rough draft swatch for the design. (This one definitely needed one, so far as I was concerned.)
As I knit my rough draft, I worked out the following chart. I wasn’t sure at first if I liked the results, but I think I do. For one thing, I like the way that each diagonal ovally section is completed over three pattern repeats. I think that the decrease lines of this might make a scarf collapse along the bias.
I do regret not managing to put in no-stitch squares to make the pattern match the result more clearly; this one gave me fits and I just had trouble. If there’s interest, I would probably be willing to give it another try for the sake of learning to do better!
- This is a stitch pattern such as might be found in a stitch dictionary. It is not a pattern for a finished object. You will need to add selvedges or some other form of knitted stitches to either side.
- Stepping Stones is a multiple of 5 stitches and 12 rows.
- I’ve made a stitch map for it.
- Designers, please feel free to use this stitch in your patterns. Please note the Creative Commons license below (only a few of my older stitch patterns have this).
- If you like my posts like this, please consider supporting me on Patreon or donating with my Paypal tip jar in the sidebar. Thanks!
- CDD: centered double decrease: slip the next 2 stitches as if to knit 2 together, knit the next stitch, then pass the 2 slipped stitches over the third.
- k: knit.
- k2tog: knit 2 stitches together as if they were 1. (Right-leaning decrease)
- k3tog: knit 3 stitches together as if they were 1. (Right-leaning double decrease)
- p: purl.
- ssk: slip each of the next 2 stitches as if to knit, then knit them together through the back loop. (Left-leaning decrease)
- sssk: slip each of the next 3 stitches as if to knit, then knit them together through the back loop. (Left-leaning double decrease.)
- yo: yarnover.
Row 1 (RS): *k1, k2tog, yo x 2, ssk; work from *.
Row 2 (WS): *p1, (k1, p1) in double yo, p2; work from *.
Row 3: *k2tog, k1, k2tog, yo x 2; work from *.
Row 4: *(k1, p1) in double yo, p3; work from *.
Row 5: *yo, ssk, yo x 2, sssk; work from *.
Row 6: *p1, (k1, p1) in double yo, p2; work from *.
Row 7: *cdd, yo x 2, k2tog, yo; work from *.
Row 8: *p2, (k1, p1) in double yo, p1; work from *.
Row 9: *yo x 2, ssk, k1, ssk; work from *.
Row 10: *p3, (k1, p1) in double yo; work from *.
Row 11: *k2tog, yo x 2, ssk, k1; work from *.
Row 12: *p2, (k1, p1) in double yo, p1; work from *.
4 thoughts on “Étude no. 2 – Stepping Stones (free stitch pattern)”
Reblogged this on jaadunn and commented:
Hey! What size needles did you use for yours?
Hi! I’m afraid I’m not certain; this post is a few years old. I don’t keep track of my needle size for these swatches. I’m also not sure what yarn I used, or I could give you a guess.
Because individual knitters’ tension varies so much, it might not help in any case. A swatch to get a general sense of what needle size you like with your yarn is probably in order.
What I can tell you is that I’m a tight knitter. For lace, the needle size I use does depend on my mood to some extent (how open do I want the holes to be?), but I usually use the needle size recommended on the yarn label, or one or two sizes larger.
I hope this helps!