Étude no. 4 — Ticky box

Speaking of mistakes, I’ve been making some while knitting my handspun swap yarn blanket. Since knitweaving is new to me, so are the mistakes that go with it. One such mistake reminded me of the kind of brioche stitch that has a slipped stitch and a yarn over that are knit together on the next row. This is not exactly that, but I thought I’d try it.

I like the boxes formed by the skinny yarn. They reminded me of ticky boxes.

Étude no. 4 — Ticky box

Aside from the setup row, this is essentially a one-row stitch pattern when worked flat. I recommend knitting with a larger needle than usual so that the boxes won’t be compressed. Main color should be approximately twice the weight of the contrast color. (This is Aran weight and fingering weight knit on needles two sizes bigger than I would usually use for Aran weight.) I’m curious about what this would look like with one solid yarn and one variegated.

Pattern looks the same on both sides.

Cast on an even number of stitches.


  • This is a stitch pattern such as might be found in a stitch dictionary. It is not a pattern for a finished object. You will need to add selvedges or some other form of knitted stitches to either side.
  • Ticky Box is a multiple of 2 stitches and 2 rows.
  • Designers, please feel free to use this stitch in your patterns.
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  • CC: contrast color
  • k: knit
  • k2tog: knit 2 stitches together as if they were 1. (Right-leaning decrease)
  • MC: main color
  • yo-k1: Bring CC yarn forward, knit next stitch with MC, then take the CC yarn over the top of the needle to the back. The order is slightly different for the last stitch of the row: make a complete yarn over with CC, then knit 1 with MC.

Set up row: *k1, yo-k1; work from *.
Row 1: *k2tog, yo-k1; work from *.

Work the set up row, then work row 1 as desired.

Break CC yarn, then bind off in pattern: k2tog, k1; work from star.