Greenland: free stitch pattern

(Click on any image to enlarge.)

This month’s word was suggested by Ron over on Patreon: Greenland. He suggested it because knitting helps keep people warm and people surely need to be warm when they’re in Greenland.

With that in mind, I set out to make a cable pattern, since cables keep in more warmth than lace. However, despite creating many grids from Greenland encoded in bases 6, 7, and 8, I couldn’t make a cable chart work. I was going to do a texture pattern, but nothing spoke to me.

So I did a lace design after all, as you can see. It’s a lace panel surrounded by purl stitches on each side.

Here’s the chart and written instructions:

Notes:

• This is a stitch pattern such as might be found in a stitch dictionary. It is not a pattern for a finished object. You will need to add selvedges or some other form of knitted stitches to either side.
• Greenland is a multiple of 22 stitches and 10 rows.
• I’ve made a stitch map for it.
• Designers, please feel free to use this stitch in your patterns.
• If you like my posts like this, please consider supporting me on Patreon or donating with my Paypal tip jar in the sidebar. Thanks!

Abbreviations:

• CDD: centered double decrease: slip the next 2 stitches as if to knit 2 together, knit the next stitch, then pass the 2 slipped stitches over the third.
• k: knit.
• k2tog: knit 2 stitches together as if they were 1. (Right-leaning decrease)
• k3tog: knit 3 stitches together as if they were 1. (Right-leaning double decrease)
• p: purl.
• ssk: slip each of the next 2 stitches as if to knit, then knit them together through the back loop. (Left-leaning decrease)
• sssk: slip each of the next 3 stitches as if to knit, then knit them together through the back loop. (Left-leaning double decrease.)
• yo: yarnover.

Row 1 (RS): *p1, k2, k2tog, yo, k2, ssk, yo x 2, ssk, k2tog, yo x 2, k2tog, k2, yo, ssk, k2; work from *, p1.
Row 2 (WS): k1, *p7, (k1, p1) in double yo, p2, (k1, p1) in double yo, p7, k1; work from *.
Row 3: *p1, k1, k2tog, yo, k1, k3tog, k2, yo, k1, yo x 2, k1, yo, k2, sssk, k1, yo, ssk, k1; work from *, p1.
Row 4: k1, *p9, (k1, p1) in double yo, p9, k1; work from *.
Row 5: *p1, k2tog, yo x 2, k3tog, (yo, k2tog) x 2, k1, yo x 2, k1, (ssk, yo) x 2, sssk, yo x 2, ssk; work from *, p1.
Row 6: k1, *p1, [(k1, p1) in double yo, p6] x 2, (k1, p1) in double yo, p1, k1; work from *.
Row 7: *p1, k1, yo, k1, (k2tog, yo) x 2, k2tog, k4, (ssk, yo) x 2, ssk, k1, yo, k1; work from *, p1.
Row 8: k1, *p20, k1; work from *.
Row 9: *p1, yo x 3, k2, yo, cdd, ssk x 2, k2, k2tog x 2, cdd, yo, k2, yo x 3; work from *, p1.
Row 10: k1, *(p1, k1, p1) in triple yo, p14, (p1, k1, p1) in triple yo, k1; work from *.

Row 1 (RS): p1, k2, k2tog, yo, k2, ssk, yo x 2, ssk, k2tog, yo x 2, k2tog, k2, yo, ssk, k2, p1.
Row 2 (WS): k1, p7, k1, p3, k1, p8, k1.
Row 3: p1, k1, k2tog, yo, k1, k3tog, k2, yo, k1, yo x 2, k1, yo, k2, sssk, k1, yo, ssk, k1, p1.
Row 4: k1, p9, k1, p10, k1.
Row 5: p1, k2tog, yo x 2, k3tog, (yo, k2tog) x 2, k1, yo x 2, k1, (ssk, yo) x 2, sssk, yo x 2, ssk, p1.
Row 6: k1, p1, (k1, p7) x 2, k1, p2, k1.
Row 7: p1, k1, yo, k1, (k2tog, yo) x 2, k2tog, k4, (ssk, yo) x 2, ssk, k1, yo, k1, p1.
Row 8: k1, p20, k1.
Row 9: p1, yo x 3, k2, yo, cdd, ssk x 2, k2, k2tog x 2, cdd, yo, k2, yo x 3, p1.
Row 10: k1, p1, k1, p16, k1, p1, k1.

And here is the stitch map:

In the process of making all those grids, I noticed that lots of them were appealing in their own right. I couldn’t really pick among all the ones I liked, so here they are. Only some of these are suitable for knitted colorwork. (Look for designs with floats no longer than five stitches.) but all of them are suitable for cross stitch or beadwork or what have you.

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