Skulls: a free lace knitting stitch pattern
This isn’t secret code. This is the result of starting a secret code swatch back in August and having to start over because there were excellent skull faces in it. (It was not appropriate to have skull faces in that particular context.)
I’ve fiddled a bit with the design – removing the non-skull bits and elongating the top a bit. I’m not sure the proportions are anatomically correct, but I like the effect, so.
(This is instead of Monday’s post.)
Doesn’t everyone take pictures of Hallowe’en themed swatches on their black cats? No?
Notes:
- This is a stitch pattern such as might be found in a stitch dictionary. It is not a pattern for a finished object. You will need to add selvedges or some other form of knitted stitches to either side.
- Wrong side rows are not shown in chart. Purl them, working (k1, p1) in each double yo.
- Skulls is a multiple of 10 stitches and 15 rows. I put a few plain rows of stockinette above and below the single vertical repeat that I worked for the swatch.
- Designers, please feel free to use this stitch in your patterns. I’d like credit but won’t be offended if people don’t give it.
- If you like my posts like this, please consider supporting me on Patreon or donating with my Paypal tip jar in the sidebar. Thanks!
Abbreviations:
- 1/1 LC: Slip next stitch to cable needle and place at front of work, knit 1, then knit 1 from cable needle.
- 1/1 RC: Slip next stitch to cable needle and place at back of work, knit 1, then knit 1 from cable needle.
- k: knit.
- k2tog: knit 2 stitches together as if they were 1. (Right-leaning decrease)
- p: purl.
- ssk: slip each of the next 2 stitches as if to knit, then knit them together through the back loop. (Left-leaning decrease)
- yo: yarn over.
Row 1 (RS): *K2, k2tog, yo, k2, yo, ssk, k2.*
Row 2 and all even rows: purl, working (k1, p1) in each double yo.
Row 3: *K1, 1/1 RC, k2tog, yo x 2, ssk, 1/1 LC, k1.*
Row 5: *(K2tog, yo) x 2, k2, (yo, ssk) x 2.*
Row 7: *Yo, ssk, k1, k2tog, yo x 2, ssk, k1, k2tog, yo.*
Row 9: *K1, ssk, yo x 2, ssk, k2tog, yo x 2, k2tog, k1.*
Row 11: *K1, yo, ssk, k4, k2tog, yo, k1.*
Row 13: *K1, yo, k2tog, k4, ssk, yo, k1.*
Row 15: *K2, yo, ssk, k2, k2tog, yo, k2.*
Designers, please feel free to use these stitches in your patterns. I’d like credit but won’t be offended if people don’t give it. Thanks! – Naomi
If you like my posts like this, please consider supporting me on Patreon. Thanks!
I’ve totally had Kestra (another wee black cat) help with my yarn project photography! ^_^
Well, of course she has. 🙂 That’s just like Kestra.
How many are you supposed to cast on if you want to use fingering weight yarn to make this into a scarf.
This blog post is the equivalent of finding a stitch pattern in a stitch dictionary; I don’t provide detailed instructions for how to turn my free stitch patterns into a finished objects. If I did that, I’d charge money for it like any of my other patterns for things like shawls or hats.
For one thing, I can’t guess how many stitches per inch your knitting with your particular yarn would be.
Here’s a very broad summary for how to figure it out for yourself:
Knit a gauge swatch in this stitch pattern in the yarn you want. For this stitch pattern, I’d recommend at least 30 stitches wide and three repeats high, plus selvedge stitches.
Wash and pin out the swatch to dry.
Take out the pins and see if you’re happy with the way the yarn looks in the pattern with that needle size. (You might need to repeat steps 1-3 if you decide it needs larger or smaller needles.)
If you’re happy with how it looks, measure how wide the lace repeats are.
From that, figure out how many repeats wide you want your scarf.
To answer your other question, I’m very much not a video person, so I don’t provide video instruction for anything.
do you have a video showing how to make this project stitch pattern