Gardens: a free lace knitting stitch

This month, the random number generator chose gardens, suggested by Cathy. In this hemisphere, it’s time to think of gardens, so it’s entirely apt. Also, I see alternating fronds in this stitch pattern.

Each month, my Patreon backers have the chance to suggest words for me to encode as knitting stitches. A random number generator helps me choose the word of the month, and then I get to work, first turning the letters into numbers, then charting the numbers onto grids in various ways. Finally, when I make the chart into lace, I turn the marked squares into yarnovers and work out where to place the corresponding decreases. (I usually make lace; occasionally I make cables instead.) I also make a chart for any craft that uses a square grid for designing; this goes in a separate post

.Gardens: a free lace knitting stitch pattern

Gardens: a free lace knitting stitch pattern chart
click to enlarge

Notes:

  • This is a stitch pattern such as might be found in a stitch dictionary. It is not a pattern for a finished object. You will need to add selvedges or some other form of knitted stitches to either side.
  • Gardens is a multiple of 24+1 stitches and 16 rows.
  • Purl all wrong-side rows, working (k1, p1) in each double yarnover.
  • I’ve made a stitch map for it.
  • Designers, please feel free to use this stitch in your patterns. I’d like credit but won’t be offended if people don’t give it.
  • If you like my posts like this, please consider supporting me on Patreon or donating with my Paypal tip jar in the sidebar. Thanks!

Abbreviations:

  • DSD: double slip decrease; ssk, slip the resulting stitch back to the left needle, pass the next stitch over, then slip the result. (Right-leaning double decrease. Substitute knit 3 together if desired; they are similar but don’t look quite the same.)
  • k: knit.
  • k2tog: knit 2 stitches together as if they were 1. (Right-leaning decrease)
  • p: purl.
  • sk2p: slip 1, k2tog, pass slipped stitch over. (Left-leaning double decrease.)
  • ssk: slip each of the next 2 stitches as if to knit, then knit them together through the back loop. (Left-leaning decrease)
  • yo: yarnover.

Row 1 (RS): *p1, yo, ssk, k1, k2tog, yo, CDD, yo, yo, k2tog, yo, k1, p1, k1, yo, ssk, yo, yo, CDD, yo, ssk, k1, k2tog, yo; work from *, p1.
Row 2: *k1, p6, (k1, p1) in double yo, p3, k1, p3, (k1, p1) in double yo, p6; work from *, k1.
Row 3: *p1, k1, DSD, k1, yo, yo, ssk, k2tog, k2, yo, yo, p1, yo, yo, k2, ssk, k2tog, yo, yo, k1, sk2p, k1; work from *, p1.
Row 4: *k1, p3, (k1, p1) in double yo, p4, (k1, p1) in double yo, k1, (k1, p1) in double yo, p4, (k1, p1) in double yo, p3; work from *, k1.
Row 5: *p1, k2tog, k1, yo, k2, yo, ssk, k2tog, yo, k2, p1, k2, yo, ssk, k2tog, yo, k2, yo, k1, ssk; work from *, p1.
Rows 6, 8, 14, and 16: *k1, p11; work from *, k1.
Row 7: *p1, k6, ssk, yo, k1, yo, k2tog, p1, ssk, yo, k1, yo, k2tog, k6; work from *, p1.
Row 9: *p1, k1, yo, ssk, yo, yo, CDD, yo, ssk, k1, k2tog, yo, p1, yo, ssk, k1, k2tog, yo, CDD, yo, yo, k2tog, yo, k1; work from *, p1.
Row 10: *k1, (k1, p1) in double yo, p4, (k1, p1) in double yo, p3, k1, p3, (k1, p1) in double yo, p4, (k1, p1) in double yo; work from *, k1.
Row 11: *p1, yo, yo, k2, ssk, k2tog, yo, yo, k1, sk2p, k1, p1, k1, DSD, k1, yo, yo, ssk, k2tog, k2, yo, yo; work from *, p1.
Row 12: *k1, (k1, p1) in double yo, p4, (k1, p1) in double yo, p3, k1, p3, (k1, p1) in double yo, p4, (k1, p1) in double yo; work from *, k1.
Row 13: *p1, k2, yo, ssk, k2tog, yo, k2, yo, k1, ssk, p1, k2tog, k1, yo, k2, yo, ssk, k2tog, yo, k2; work from *, p1.
Row 15: *p1, ssk, yo, k1, yo, k2tog, k6, p1, k6, ssk, yo, k1, yo, k2tog; work from *, p1.

(I’ll try to put up an explanation of how I designed this stitch soon.)