Oak Butterflies

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There are lots of butterflies with oak in their name, or which rely on oak trees in one way or another, but I called this stitch pattern Oak Butterflies because it’s a variant on my Oak lace.

It’s a bit simpler than that one, but it can be simplified even further: if you don’t want to knit the kyok stitch that makes a little head (see abbreviations below), then substitute rows 5 and 11 from the original Oak lace.

(This variant isn’t a coded word anymore.)

Knitted lace where the holes make a pattern like stylized butterflies, with one small pair of wings, one larger pair of wings, and a tiny hole for the head.
Chart showing how to knit Oak Butterflies lace by means of special symbols. Written instructions in blog post.
click chart to enlarge

Notes:

  • If you would like a variant without the kyok, substitute rows 5 & 11 from Oak lace.
  • This is a stitch pattern such as might be found in a stitch dictionary. It is not a pattern for a finished object. You will need to add selvedges or some other form of knitted stitches to either side.
  • Oak Butterflies lace is a multiple of 12 + 13 stitches and 12 + 6 rows. (End after either row 6 or 12.)
  • I’ve made a stitch map for Oak Butterflies.
  • Designers, please feel free to use this in your patterns. I’d like credit but won’t be offended if people don’t give it.
  • My blog posts and free stitch patterns are supported by subscriptions on Patreon or donations to my Paypal tip jar in the sidebar. If you appreciate my work, please consider helping out. Thanks!

Abbreviations:

  • active needle: the needle on which new stitches are placed.
  • CDD: slip the next 2 stitches as if to knit 2 together, knit the next stitch, then pass the 2 slipped stitches over the third. (Stands for centered double decrease.)
  • double yo: bring the yarn forward between the needles, wrap it once around the active needle, and leave the yarn in front so it makes a second loop when the next stitch is knit.
  • k: knit.
  • (k1, p1) in 1 stitch: knit 1 in the next stitch without removing it from the needle. Purl 1 in the same stitch. At this point, slip the stitch off the needle entirely.
  • (k1, p1) in double yo: knit 1 in the double yarnover without removing it from the needle. Purl 1 in the same stitch. At this point, slip the double yarnover off the needle entirely. The first loop of the double yarnover can be slipped off at any point in the process.
  • k2tog: knit 2 stitches together as if they were 1. (Right-leaning decrease)
  • kyok: (knit 1, yarnover, knit 1) all in the same stitch.
  • p: purl.
  • ssk: slip each of the next 2 stitches as if to knit, then knit them together through the back loop. (Or substitute your favorite left-leaning decrease)
  • yo: yarnover. Bring the yarn forward between the needles so that it will make a loop over the needle when the next stitch is worked.

Row 1 (RS): k4, k2tog, yo, k1, *yo, ssk, k7, k2tog, yo, k1; work from *, yo, ssk, k4. (25 sts)

Row 2 (WS): purl.

Row 3: k3, k2tog, double yo, cdd, *double yo, ssk, k5, k2tog, double yo, cdd; work from *, double yo, ssk, k3.

Row 4: p4, (k1, p1) in double yo, *p1, (k1, p1) in double yo, p7, (k1, p1) in double yo; work from *, p1, (k1, p1) in double yo, p4.

Row 5: k2, k2tog, k2, *kyok, k2, ssk, k3, k2tog, k2; work from *, kyok, k2, ssk, k2.

Row 6: purl.

Row 7: k1, yo, ssk, k4, *k3, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k4; work from *, k3, k2tog, yo, k1.

Row 8: purl.

Row 9: ssk, double yo, ssk, k3, *k2, k2tog, double yo, cdd, double yo, ssk, k3; work from *, k2, k2tog, double yo, k2tog.

Row 10: p1, (k1, p1) in double yo, p3, *p4, (k1, p1) in double yo, p1, (k1, p1) in double yo, p3; work from *, p4, (k1, p1) in double yo, p1.

Row 11: (k1, p1) in 1 stitch, k2, ssk, k2, *k1, k2tog, k2, kyok, k2, ssk, k2; work from *, k1, k2tog, k2, (k1, p1) in 1 stitch.

Row 12: purl.